Bikes

Our hero Johnny T's favorite bike, the Automatic has been totally redesigned for 2010, increasing to 120mm of travel and incorporating the highly coveted IAS suspension design. Among a bevy of features, the Automatic 120 uses triple butted 6069 top and down tubes, forged aluminum shock mounts, CNC machined shock and rocker link mounts, full high compliment bearings, oversize aluminum shock pins and a custom 7050 high strength rear derailleur hanger. If you are an XC rider that wants a bike for everything, the Automatic 120 is a bike that really excels in every occasion.

 

"This bike is perfect for me. I love the way it handles, absorbs bumps and how neutral it feels when I am climbing and descending. It's the one bike in my quiver that I find myself continually choosing because it just does everything right."
Johnny T.

Features
A versatile trail bike for rough terrain, combining excellent pedaling efficiency and suspension activity.

• New IAS Instant Active Suspension system provides improved response time to bump forces and excellent pedalling efficiency
• 120mm travel, designed for 120 or 130mm travel fork
• 6.4 pound/2900g frame weight with Fox RP23 shock
• 6069 aluminum with custom butted top, down and seat tubes
• CNC machined seat stay arch, dropouts and yokes
• Fits SRAM, Shimano and FSA front derailleur's
• Full seat post extension
• Dual water bottle mounts on all but small size
• Up to 2.2 tire clearance
• 69.5 degree head angle, 73 seat angle, 13.1 BB height

Spec

Geometry

Technology

The Automatic incorporated the new IAS Instant Active Suspension System. IAS suspension makes quick work out of bumps, especially repetitive hits (think braking bumps) where quick suspension action means less transmitted to the rider. Because the suspension also initiates quicker, test riders consistently noted that IAS equipped bikes drive through bumps more easily, maintaining speed rather than letting the rough terrain slow the bike down. The rocker link allows us to manipulate the shock rate as the bike goes through the travel, providing a perfect curve to both absorb bumps and pedal well. Using a single pivot design allows us to create a very stiff package that is overall lighter than competitor's bikes.

One of the important aspects of the Automatic's suspension is the main pivot location. We configured it in a location that would maximize pedalling efficiency, but not in a place that would create excessive pedal feedback or minimize the bike's ability to absorb bumps. We used a Fox RP23 shock with XY secondary air canister because it's more linear from middle stroke and has low initial stiction (because you are running lower initial pressures). The Automatic has a relatively flat shock rate, which maximized the character of the air shock. It allows the bike to pedal well, get full travel and still feel pretty bottomless throughout the travel.

Because the bike tends to sit closer to the top of the travel under standard rider load, i.e. not wallowing in the middle, it pedals better and you get a sense that the bike has longer travel that you would expect. This also helps lessen the ?hooking? effect on rocks and roots because the suspension isn't over-compressing, kicking the power into the pedals and disrupting your pedal motion so you can't ride through rough terrain.

Because the swingarm typically sees the majority of lateral (side to side) flex, the Automatic uses a fully triangulated rear swingarm to increase stiffness. Stiffness in the swingarm translates both into better rider control, but it also allows the suspension to be more active in rough terrain. When the rear end is suffering from lateral flex during suspension movement, it binds the shock and will limit suspension movement. The front triangle has also been designed with stiffness in mind. The top and down tube are specially shaped to maximize lateral stiffness, and are triple butted to ensure minimal weight.

The aspect of the Automatic that you will really like is just how well it pedals and absorbs bumps. These might seem like contradictory functions, but that's the biggest difference we see between Tomac bikes and our competitor's bikes. We know you will ride the same bike down that you climbed up, and that you need a bike that will perform both activities with aplomb.

Setup Guide -Suspension Setup
One of the best ways you can maximize the performance of your bicycle is by ensuring correct rear shock sag. To set sag, sit on the bike in a normal riding position near a wall to steady yourself. Without bouncing on the saddle or pedals, distribute your weight on the saddle and pedals in a normal riding position while holding the handlebars. Have a friend measure the distance between the front and back shock mounts.

Automatic/Carbide XC: This measurement should be between 153 and 155mm for the Carbide and 173 and 175 for the Automatic. This measurement means that approximately 25% to 30% of the total shock travel is used as sag. This is appropriate for cross country riding.

Recommended Sag Applications
Cross Country (Automatic/Carbide XC) 25-30% Sag

Spring Adjustment-Air Shocks
To install air pressure in the main air spring, remove the air cap from the Schrader valve located above the large air spring canister. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air left in the pump itself and not from the shock. This does not affect your pressure setting in the shock. Likewise, when you install the pump, the shock will fill the pump and reduces the registered pressure previously installed in the shock. This usually is a 10-15 psi difference between what was in the shock and what the pump is reading. This is all normal procedure when adjusting the air spring pressure. After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap.

Preload Adjustment – Coil Shocks

Coil spring preload adjustments are done with the spring preload adjustment ring. Adjust the spring preload adjuster up or down to achieve the desired amount of sag. Never exceed 8 mm/.325" of preload on the coil spring. Always make sure that you have a minimum of 1 mm of preload on the spring. If you reach the maximum spring preload (8 mm) and the sag is too much, you’ll need to go to the next higher spring rate. If you reach the minimum amount of spring preload (1 mm) and there is not enough sag, you’ll need to go to the next lightest spring rate.

Rebound Damping Adjustment
The rebound damping controls the return rate of the shock after it has been compressed to absorb a bump. Rebound damping can be adjusted for different spring rates, terrain, and rider preferences. Rebound on shocks can be adjusted by the red knob on Fox shock and the blue knob on Manitou shocks, which is located on the shaft eyelet mount on coil shocks and the air canister eyelet mount on air shocks. As a general rule, rebound that is adjusted too fast will exhibit a springy ride that has excessive pedaling movement and kick up the rear end on multiple bumps and big hits. Rebound that is adjusted too slow will exhibit a packing of the rear wheel that is identified by a low ride height, stiff feeling on multiple bumps and the rear wheel drifting to one side on stutter (braking) bumps. A good rebound starting point is to set the shock to achieve a return movement that is just short of “snapping back”.

FAQ

Which Bike is Right for Me?
We love bikes and would love to hear from you, so if thereÂ’s even a question about which bike is right for you, please contact us via e- mail or phone so we can talk bikes.

Why is the Automatic 100mm of Travel?
The Automatic's 100 of travel allows you a lot of flexibility without a big weight disadvantage. It's designed around a 100mm travel fork, but you would also use the Automatic with a 120mm travel fork, which slacker the head angle fro more relaxed handling.

Why Use an Eccentric Pivot?
Hidden beneath the cap on the seat stay end if a small eccentric pivot. The benefit to the eccentric pivot is the elimination of the pivot at the rear axle, which results in a dramatic increase in rear end stiffness. When you put a pivot and bearing at the rear wheel, you are just putting a flex point (the pivot) out at the end of a big lever arm (the swing arm). When you eliminate this flex point, and use a short shock link (like the new Tomacs have), you create a very stiff, fully-triangulated rear end. This means excellent steering when cornering and maximum power output when pedaling. The benefit of using this pivot versus the carbon fiber flex stay on the Snyper and Carbide is that the cost is greatly reduced.

Why the Short Shock Link?
The reason for the low, forward link-mount is that it allows you to make the front triangle very tight and thus increase front-end stiffness; the longer the link, the longer the lever arm and the greater reduction in stiffness.

Why is the Front Derailleur Mounted on the Swing arm?
There are two reasons the front derailleur is mounted on the swing arm, the first of which is shifting accuracy. We?ve have had a lot of success with long-term shifting crispness with this setup. Second, putting the front derailleur on the swing arm allowed us to make a more compact front triangle and integrate the lower link mount into the front triangle. This improves front end stiffness and eliminates redundancy of parts.

Why do most Tomacs have full Derailleur Housing to the Front Derailleur?
Simply put, we want to keep the muck away from the front derailleur cable so shifting remains precise over the long haul. There is no better way to do this than enclosing the cable completely, especially in grimy areas like under the down tube.

Can I Get a New Derailleur Hanger?
The derailleur hanger is made out of 7075 aircraft grade aluminum, and is mounted with stainless steel bolts, should it should be more stout than most derailleur hangers. Should a mishap cause damage to it, simply contact the reseller in your country to purchase another one.

What is the seat post size?
30.9 on all Tomac bikes.
What if My Bike Creaks?
Sometimes after repetitive washings or extensive riding in the elements, the main pivot and link bolts will become dry and can cause creaking. Simple removing, cleaning, relubricating and reinstalling the bolts will eliminate any creaking. If creaking continues, you may need to replace the bearings. Remember to inspect the frame for any damage before each ride.

Where Do You Test the Bikes?
In the winter, we spend the majority of our test time at South Mountain outside of Phoenix. In the summer months, we test near Salida, Colorado. Between seasons, we ride at Platte River State Park about an hour from Omaha, Nebraska.

Why and How Did You Choose the Spec on the Complete Bikes?
When we set out to spec the complete bikes, we wanted to accomplish three major goals. 1) Use all high quality parts from brand name manufacturers including complete wheel sets, folding bead John Tomac Signature Kenda tires, FSA headsets, Thomson stems, etc) We didnÂ’t want to have cheap hidden parts on the frames. In the bike industry, itÂ’s common to spec low end stuff in places when you wouldnÂ’t easily see it (for example the cassette and bottom bracket). 3) We wanted to use parts that we had ridden and knew would provide high performance and high durability.

What's the Service Life on the Bearings?
The service life of the bearings is determined by the amount and conditions that you ride in. That said, we focused extensively on maximizing bearing life. Not only did we use full compliment bearings throughout, but we made sure that all the bearing surfaces are tucked away from contaminants like dirt and grit. Lastly, the design of the frame inherently puts little stress on the bearings themselves. Keeping them clean and under minimal load means longer service intervals on the bearings.

How Can I Tell If I Need New Bearings?
Remove the rear wheel and the rear shock from the frame. Cycle the bike through its travel by pulling up and down on the rear end. Do you notice any grittiness or binding? Put your hand over all of the pivots and move the rear end again. Does it seem notchy? If so, you will need to contact the authorized Tomac retailer in your country. Go to www.tomac.com for more information.

I Can't Find the Answer to My Question
Please let us know we can improve our FAQS section by e-mailing or calling us.

Owners Manual

Click here for the owners manual PDF file.

Warranty

For warranty information, e-mail Joel Smith at

Reviews

 

Frag unsere Techniker

Gibt es etwas, dass du schon über über Tomac wissen wolltest, aber niemals wusstest, wenn du fragen kannst? Hier bist du richtig! Schick uns deine Fragen und wir werden dir antworten.

Hier für die Email-Fragen klicken.